Peregrinations: Monthly Coffee Club

February 2010 selection

Single Estate

Costa Rica, Lourdes de Naranjo, Herbazu Farm

This surprising single estate coffee from Costa Rica behaves quite a bit like a top Kenyan!  The cup starts with distinct citrus and mixed fruit aromas with a clear sweetness.  The brightness in the cup is definitely lemon blended with berries following with deeper caramel-sweetness notes – very Kenya!  A great example of a bright, complex Costa Rican.

From the Importer:

“Cafetalera Herbazu is a well-known farm in the West Valley region, the Lourdes de Naranjo area to be exact. It is on of the early pioneers in independent, small mill coffee farms, the work of the Barrantes family. They grow a type of Villa Sarchi cultivar that they have used for so long, it has become their own mutation in a way. It’s quite a short plant (Villa Sarchi is a dwarf mutation of Bourbon, as is Caturra). The mill and drying patios are right in the center of the farm, which ranges from 1550 to 1700 meters. They don’t employ much shade on the farm, and their particular type of Villa Sarchi seems adapted to this exposure. This offering is a wet-process style estate grade, which is a forced demucilage process (as opposed to traditional fermentation wet-process).”

Bolivia, Caranavi
Nakhaki Estate Lot “C”
Nelson Olori, Farmer

Here is another fine micro-lot coffee from Bolivia. The complexity of this coffee starts with the first whiff from the cup. There are florals, chocolate and nut with meaty-earthy notes along with a typical coffee aroma. A touch of black cherry and caramel is also present. The flavors reflect Autumn: maple and brown sugar, caramel and fruit. A pinch of lemony citrus comes through too. The mouthfeel is thick, rich and balanced. There are hints of nuts and caramel on finish. This coffee is predominantly deep and dark with occasional bright notes.

The distinctive Nakhaki coffees come from the Uchumachi, Colonia Kantutani, Caranavi Province in the Yungas of La Paz, Bolivia. They are expertly tendered and carefully processed by this small group of organic farmers that protect their environment with shade trees and ecological processing. Their micro-lot coffees include Typica and Red Caturra varieties.

Importer comments: Citric acidity (meyer lemon), sweet, syrupy, balanced body with hints of dark chocolate, sugar cane and red wine. Its silky texture carries forward reminders of vanilla, floral essence and green apple.

This unique organic peaberry from Café Cascada starts with an elegant combination of aromas of fruit and nuts.  Once in the cup, the flavors include cocoa, a mix of tart and sweet cherries, nut meat, malt, and subtle hints of spice and herbs.  The mouthfeel has a light and airy texture and is perfectly balanced, reminding one of chiffon.  Although not overtly acidic, a welcome brightness emerges as it cools.  The finish is long with cocoa and tart cherry tones. This is a superb, very well balanced coffee.

Importer comments:  Sweet chocolate, black cherry, sugar cane, dried stone fruit, syrupy mouth feel, clean, syrah wine, pecans, malt.

This curious coffee begins with the aroma of sweet herbs layered with an earthy combination of nuts, meat and roots. The main flavor characteristics are deep, dark and savory, starting with bittersweet, dark chocolate. One particularly unique tone that comes through is licorice. The mouthfeel is dry and comes across as tight and compact. The hints of cinnamon, a little clove, and dark savory herbs follow through to the finish. This coffee improves greatly as it cools and is superb at room temperature.

This exceptional and unusual coffee starts off with smells of sweetness, darkness and chocolate with numerous savory spices, and burnt sugar.  The flavors pick up where the aroma leaves off with wintry tones of well worn leather, old pipe tobacco, and bittersweet chocolate.  The mouthfeel is quite dry and papery with practically no acidity.  What emerges at the finish is the typical Sumatran cedar note, especially pronounced as it cools.  A great example of an aged bean.